I have been traveling to Tulum with my family for the past 5 years, although a lot is changing there are still some things that remain the same and make it such a special place. What I love most about Tulum is being surrounded by jungle and nature, but also having access to upscale hotels and really good restaurants. The smell of copal burning gives it an ethereal, otherworldly feel. There is magic that cannot be replicated anywhere else. My only hope is that as they expand it doesn't lose those magic vibes.
Where to Stay:
The options are endless and for any budget. You can stay in an Airbnb, these are plentiful. The Aldea Zamá section is currently the closest to the beach and most properties provide free bikes to travel back and forth. You can get to the beach in about 10-15 minutes by bike. There is also Central Park Tulum. We have stayed here and you are provided with check-in service, daily housekeeping, several pools (including a rooftop private pool if you book the penthouse), a gym, a restaurant, and all the amenities of a hotel. This one is about a 20-minute drive to the beach, but they do offer a daily shuttle or you can rent a car. You can also stay outside of the Tulum area, I love the property Gran Bahía Príncipe Residences located in the Riviera Maya, also a 20-minute ride by car, but was a very modern, clean, beautiful, large house with a private backyard pool.
The nice thing about staying in a house is you have a full kitchen. I like to make my green smoothies in the morning. You have space to spread out, do yoga, take your time in the morning, access your own pool. Basically, it gives you more options and also cuts down on costs, especially if you get a few groceries. The downside is you are not near the beach. Some properties (like Central Park) offer a free beach club with shuttle access. The other option for enjoying the beach is to go to one of the hotels there. Most will allow you to use their beach and/or pool if they have it for about $50 per person per day. The $50 can be spent on food and drinks while you are there. As things change in Tulum these prices might be going up. I know Casa Malca now charges an entry fee as well, but others are still in the $50 range. Here is a list of some that I have checked out personally:
Hotels with pool:
Zebra
Casa Malca
Habitas (adults only)
Papaya Playa Project (adults only)
Be Tulum (adults only)
Hotels that allow kids:
Casa Malca
Zebra
Nomade
Coco Beach Club (this is a small beach area and doesn't have cabana beds)
Where to Eat:
It is pretty hard to find a bad meal in Tulum, but here are a few of my favorites.
Rosa Negra: A Latin-American flavor, this place has really great food. Love the octopus, the shrimp tacos, the ceviche- wow! They give you the best puff bread to start, it's very memorable. The desserts are also amazing, so save room. It gets pretty rowdy here as they have a live DJ, go early if you want a quieter vibe. Great for people-watching, bridal showers, groups of friends. Also, family-friendly. We go every time we come to Tulum.
Gitano: A very romantic vibe with jungle surround and string lights hanging above. They are known for their amazing mezcal cocktails. Great Mexican food. I had the shrimp tacos and they didn't disappoint.
Philosophie @ Casa Malca: We stayed here so we got to experience breakfast, lunch, and dinner. You can eat outside with beautiful ocean views and at night it is equally stunning under the moonlight with silver waves and sand under your feet. They also have indoor dining if you prefer. Breakfast is free if you stay at Casa Malca (and book through hotels.com). They make fresh baked bread and pastries and have a wide range of breakfast from chia pudding to traditional Mexican options like chilaquiles. For lunch, you can have pizza, tacos, or octopus right at the pool. For dinner, I highly recommend trying one of the fresh catches of the day. It is caught very nearby and prepared whole with a divine mustard sauce, salt, and pepper- simple yet perfect. I had this twice it was so good! It's a little more expensive than most places, but you definitely get what you pay for.
Hartwood: A very cool, essentially Tulum place that changes their menu daily based on what they find at the local Yucatan markets. They use sustainable practices, solar panels, power the lights and music and every other little thing that keeps the restaurant running. They are zero carbon footprint, creating 100 percent organic compost that is used in regenerating the mangrove environment and interior farming. All cooking is done by an open fire. They use only sustainable fishing methods to ensure a thriving and healthy aquatic life.
Ambrosia @ Casa Malca: An Asian-inspired restaurant set in a tiny room built of recycled wood and decorated in the artworks of Keith Harring. You must try the sushi 'fire roll', which they set on fire tableside. I don't think my taste buds have ever experienced anything so divine.
Matcha Mama: This is the place to go for iced matcha, smoothie bowl, or fresh juice. They have swings to sit on while you wait. They close around noon so get there early. I love the iced match with coconut milk.
Loco Tulum: I must admit I was about to leave when I noticed the menu was a type of Mediterranean Mexican fusion, think hummus on tacos. Don't get me wrong I love Mediterranean food and I love Mexican food. I just didn't think they would mix well together, but boy was I wrong. This place was unique and the tacos rocked my world. We had the fish and the shrimp tacos and both were amazing. Our server was really friendly too. We went for lunch, but it looked like they have a DJ later in the day.
Burrito Amor: This place is in the heart of Tulum, the local area, not along the beach road. When we stayed in the Airbnb we frequented this place several times. I had to pry my friend away as she says they have the best vegetarian burritos. Very inexpensive compared to some of the places near the beach. Worth a trip if you have a car.
La Chiapaneca: Also located in Tulum town (or Tulum Pueblo), they have really good tacos for like $1 US
Where to Shop:
La Troupe: Everything is 100% handmade and beautiful. They have dresses, beach bags, jewelry, and pillowcases for the homemade with hand-done needlework.
Wanderlust: They have a collection of beach dresses that are so essentially Tulum, that relaxed gauzy, breezy look. Definitely check them out. They have a location at the beach hidden in the jungle next to @nesttulum or a showroom in Aldea Zamá.
Bendito Tulum: Clothing, hats and really cool dreamcatchers, and other wall hangings. These are handmade and make a great souvenir/ home decor that will remind you of your travels every time you see it hanging in your home.
When to Go:
January to March is ideal as the Sargassum seaweed is low and you will get to experience the beaches in their full beauty. This is also high season and the most expensive time to visit.
July through early October is hurricane season, if you take a chance you can take advantage of the lower rates. October through December is nice weather and fewer tourists.
Things to Do:
Visit the Cenotes
There are many cenotes in the area, you could spend days (months really) just exploring these breathtaking natural wonders. The best way to do it is to hire a driver, for the day, you can arrange this with your hotel concierge, and have them take you to two or three. This cost us roughly $150 US for the entire day. You can also visit the Tulum ruins on the same day. You will also have to pay to enter the cenotes and may choose to hire a guide once you are there. Some of the caves can only be entered with a guide, so this was a nice way to see everything. The guide cost $70 US for about a 2-hour tour. Pack your own towels, and wear crappy flip flops (I had only a nice pair of sandals and they were stolen), don't bring anything valuable, or leave it in the car.
Here are some of the best cenotes near Tulum:
Dos Ojos: About 20-30 minutes from Tulum, as the name implies it is two cenotes. It is pretty well known but the crystal clear beautiful water is perfect for snorkeling and the extremely deep cave system is popular for diving trips. We visited the open cenote on our own and hired a guide for the caves. I would recommend doing the guided tour as you cannot enter the caves without a guide and he explained to us the whole history of the cenotes which was really cool.
Sac Actun: This one has great reviews on TripAdvisor. Unique cave formations and it’s right by Dos Ojos so you might as well visit both of them.
Gran Cenote: Less than 10 minutes out of Tulum, this cenote is beautiful for swimming and snorkeling but does get crowded.
Suytun: I've not been to this one and it is a bit farther out, about 1.5 hours driving from Tulum. Not the best cenote for swimming as the water is a bit shallow, but the massive stalactite and the concrete platform in the middle with light coming in from a hole in the ceiling make beautiful lighting and dramatic photos.
Mayan Ruins
Mexico is full of history and the Yucatan full of eclectic history. There are a number of Mayan sites to visit, however, these are three of the most famous:
Tulum Ruins
The famous Tulum ruins are right there, just above the beaches of Tulum, or just a few miles from Tulum town. You can get there by bike, taxi or car. Taxi pretty much anywhere is $20 US. If you have a rental car, parking is less than $10 US, so cheaper than a taxi. The Tulum ruins entrance fee is around $5 US. I suggest arriving at the ruins early to beat the crowds, they open at 8 AM and definitely get crowded as the day goes on. You should definitely visit this when in Tulum if nothing else. It's cool to imagine this ancient city perched above the crystal clear water.
Chichen Itza
Considered the most important Mayan site in the Yucatan peninsula, these pyramids are about a 1.5 hour drive from Tulum, so you could either rent a car, hire a taxi for the day, or take an excursion. I have not yet been to this site, but check out Complete Guide to Chichen Itza.
Coba
Archaeologists believe the Mayan ruins of Coba were an incredibly important city for the Maya people. The name itself means “waters stirred by the wind.” Due to Coba’s remote location, the site is not as popular with tourists as other famous Mayan ruins in Mexico. Compared to Chichen Itza, Coba has more of an overgrown jungle feel to it. And since it is more remote, far fewer tourists visit Coba. It’s also one of the few ruins that you’re still allowed to climb up to catch an amazing view.
Xel-Há Park
Xel-Há is a theme park in the Riviera Maya with unlimited drinks, food, and plenty of activities: unlimited snorkel, zip-lining, lazy river, in the mangroves, snooba, animal sanctuaries, stingray encounter, and more. The food is not great, but we had a nice time exploring this park for the day.
Akumal Monkey Sanctuary
This is a primate rescue and over the years they have taken in other animals as well, deer, parrots, etc. There is a 2-hour tour for $55 US adults, $45 US kids. They also offer packages with a cenote visit and an ATV tour. You get to tour all the animal areas and at the end, they put you in a huge enclosure with the monkey and get the monkey to climb on you with food offerings. It is quite a memorable experience.
Other Things to Know:
It is safe, even walking around at night, though I would walk with a friend. Don't bring anything valuable, you won't need it. You can get by in flip flops and sandals, even for dinner. In fact, the terrain can be a bit rough, so heels will likely be ruined. You can wear your earnings or wedding ring, but I would leave anything flashy at home. It's a very boho-chic vibe and you will be comfortable in casual clothes, think summery dresses, a beachy bag, and flats.
If driving, be careful at night, don't drink and drive and make sure you keep the lights on and follow traffic rules. The police have been known to target rental cars (usually white cars) and once they pull you over they will try to bribe you for cash with the threat of going to jail. It helps to speak Spanish or know someone who does or who you can call to communicate for you. This can be avoided by following the rules, but worth a warning as this did happen to us. We have a friend who is local and he confirmed this has happened to other tourists. Be smart and you will be fine. Or stay in a hotel near the beach where everything is walkable or you can easily grab a taxi.
You can spend pesos or dollars, but if you need cash (and you will) there is an exchange rate of 7-9% when taking money out of the ATM, and most only dispense in US dollars. I would recommend bringing cash with you, at a minimum $20 a day for tips and taxis.
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